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Open Season

This update gets its own entry.

Despite everything - and everything is a supersized miscellany here, ranging from arthritis to splashers (watch for my post on splashers) - despite supersonic adversity, albeit supersonic adversity that had somewhat faded away, Kathleen and I got to the Met this evening so that she could see the van Gogh drawings. We arrived at eight-fifteen. The invitation read "Six to Nine." In Gotham, we write our numbers out.

At eight-thirty, I was seized by the conviction that anybody who showed up at 8:59 would be allowed to enter - only to be told a minute later to leave. So I began hustling Kathleen through the show (which I had already seen). She was docility itself. I learned from her leisurely study of the early, Dutch-subject rooms that her natural pace contemplated a ten-o'clock departure. And while the early stuff is very good. the later stuff is IMMORTAL. So I hustled. When we entered a new room, I led Kathleen straight to what I thought was important. This is what Miss G means by my telling Kathleen what to do, I suppose, but in fact we had seen nearly all the drawings - but only "nearly" - when a guard announced, not that the galleries would close in fifteen minutes, which is what I'd expected, but simply that "these galleries are closed." You can imagine the insurance issues that the museum faces with members' previews. For the record, there was no search of bags. A delicate balancing act meant that some unscrupulous thief-of-an-invitation (there was none of the new swiping* of membership cards) could have blown the joint up.

But this entry is really about dinner, at Caffe Grazie. Caffe Grazie is a boîte that advertises itself as a cheap Italian place. And it's cheaper than many other Italian places on the Upper East Side. But I want to know if $135 for two (including generous tip) is really to be thought of as "cheap." I don't think so, myself. But it was good. The food was fine-to-great, where "great" is "just what I wanted." And the service was great, too, where great means "how long for the next martini?." And the eavesdropping - well, the eavesdropping was world class.

The guys we were eavesdropping on came from Minnesota or Wisconsin. Or perhaps Nebraska. One of the Wholesome States. They were old friends who live here now.  Accents aside, they spoke like naturalized New Yorkers, and one of them was married to a denizen of Queens. But they were obviously corn-fed. My own family, after all, moved here from the Midwest in the Thirties. I Know What It Sounds Like.

The conversation was riveting - possibly because it was conducted at a volume that New York natives avoid. A Nebraska, we're-all-friends-here volume. Not that anybody was loud exactly. But the two old friends from out West were speaking with a complete disregard for the dangers of being overheard. Correspondingly, they said nothing, absolutely nothing, that was indiscreet. Except that one was gay and wanted to talk about Fernando Ferrer vs Michael Bloomberg vis-à-vis "the Community." I should have loved to know his opinion, but officious waiters kept interrupting with dessert choices. And Kathleen actually thought that the entire table was for Bush. (It WASN'T!).

The married couple asked the gay guy when his apartment on Seventh Avenue would be renovated. The usual tale of delayed kitchen cabinets followed.

And I could have thought: out-of-towners. Sure. I was born here, and Kathleen was being tortured in 96th Street about proper diction at the age of five. ("We don't say 'sneakers'; we say 'tennis shoes'.") Kathleen and I are the locals. But New York is different from Paris and London and Rome and Tokyo and everywhere else. Here in New York, you can become a Genuine New Yorker within your own lifetime. You will be welcomed as a native, under certain circumstances, even if you're not one.

I broached my new theory to Kathleen. She said, "What about the Book?." It's true that the Social Register remains a vitally important source of other people's information for certain New Yorkers. It is equally the case that neither Kathleen nor I appears in its pages. But we know enough people who do to know that New York has moved on to a new social register. It's the one that includes Martha Stewart and Donald Trump. Even if we're not in the Book, we didn't go to school with Martha Stewart and Donald Trump. On the other hand, we did go to school with George Bush. So we're ready for a new set of distinctions.

The people from a town in the Midwest that would probably embarrass me by its civic excellence if I knew what it was - they're New Yorkers.

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Comments

$135 for dinner? How do those transplanted Midwesterners afford it? Not that I don't love New York, but you can get great Vietnamese food for $6 in Minneapolis.

Three thousand times your age, Kat, that's minimum altitude in NYC. Minneapolis-St Paul, I would say, around, fifteen hundred times your age. And, out here where I am, about a thousand times your age. Thats the minimum annual income to maintain any decent style. Just enough altitude to see the horizon, certainly not enough to get a good view. Good views lately take about twenty million for a two week stay on the space station, but you have to train for two years and still pay twenty million. I wonder if the twenty mil includes the training room and board. NYC, please, let me live there again for more than three weeks. Please, God, please!

Many years ago, after grad school, I cancelled an interview for a teaching job at a posh private school when I learned the salary was $9,000. I couldn't have afforded to live anywhere in NY--except maybe a dumpster in an alley. I love NY, though.

Nowhere but New York:overheard on an express subway this morning, a conversation by 2 early "thirty-somethings".

She: " I'm not sure I want to be sailing down the Pacific coast and talking on a cellphone to my parents while someone boards our dinghy and tries to steal it. That's what happened not long ago to my father- he had to hang up and beat the guy off the boat...there are pirates in that part of the world".

He: "Well, that how 99.9% of people live their lives...at least it's REAL life, not like what we're doing , standing on a subway going to work. I want to retire by age 40, and I figure I only need to save about $1 million...do you know that you can live well in the Philipines for about $2,000 a month?'

I don't know how many many years ago was but in the late sixties the sum you mention would have been enough especially if you were young, twenty something. The way I did it was the way most do, I think, friends and associates, roommates and cheap food. South Texas food, corn tortillas, beans and rice goes a long way. Walking goes a long way in NYC. From 126th and Amsterdam to Battery Park near where WBAI is now located is a long but not impossible regular walk. WBAI from time to time is deep in turmoil as most Pacifica radio stations are most of the time, something about activism I think. In the late sixties WBAI was located much further north and more towards the east side of Central Park. If you were from East Texas walking through the Park didn't seem unusual at all at least to me. I mean who would be out there anyway at two or three in the morning which was when we usually finished splicing tape to make up radio plays. And, then of course there was always the odd friend who had a taxi or hansom cab so you didn't always have to walk. Amazing what you can barter in NYC, "Hey, man you want to do a radio play?" "How are things in New York son?", my mother would ask and I could say, "Great, Mom, just great, I'm right over from the stables."

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